"A brand is more than a product." Henryk Orfinger on innovation, family and the future of luxury beauty made in Poland

Well.pl: Let's start with the beauty market. What changes do you see, both globally and locally – in Poland?

Henryk Orfinger: There are no revolutionary changes in the cosmetics industry. Of course, we observe trends – for example, the growing influence of Korea or changes in colour cosmetics, which are always subject to fashion. There are also novelties in skin care, but in fact it turns out that traditional skin care still works best. Eco was fashionable, but in practice it did not withstand the price competition in the mass market segment. Customers declared that they wanted eco, but chose cheaper products.

Well.pl: So eco didn't work?

Henryk Orfinger: To a large extent not. Mass-market eco is no longer profitable – too expensive for the broad market. It has become a niche. I say this from the perspective of 42 years on the market – there are changes, but rather evolutionary, not revolutionary. Consumer expectations are changing, society is getting richer, which allows for the creation of more refined and richer in ingredients products. But all this is happening calmly, slowly.

Well.pl: Have these changes influenced the Dr Irena Eris brand strategy?

Henryk Orfinger: Our strategy is consistently based primarily on scientific research. We have a strong expert base – qualified technologists and our own Science and Research Centre. This is where innovations are created: new ingredients, new combinations, new properties of cosmetics. It is this scientific foundation that makes the Dr Irena Eris brand unique and its unquestionably premium character. We respond to very specific, high expectations of conscious and demanding customers. Our position also opens up a natural path for further expansion on international markets.

Well.pl: You are currently available in over 60 countries. Where do you see the greatest potential?

Henryk Orfinger: Indeed, we are in over 60 countries, but the scale of this presence varies. In Spain we have over 300 points of sale, in Arab countries we operate in selected, luxury perfumeries. We want to build a strong presence – not just to be, but to really act. This is key for me. We strive to ensure that our brands – both Dr Irena Eris and Pharmaceris – are treated on an equal footing with the largest global brands.

Henryk Orfinger on the breakthrough moments in his career and business

Well.pl: Let's go back to the history of the brand. Was there a moment that completely changed your approach to business?

Henryk Orfinger: There were two such moments. The first was in 1989 – the change of the system. From craftsmen we became entrepreneurs. It was a great breakthrough, suddenly a perspective of development appeared. The second moment was Poland's accession to the European Union in 2004. For me personally, it was the moment when I felt like a citizen of the world. The EU opened up markets for us, gave us new opportunities. But like everything – it also has its drawbacks, e.g. excessive bureaucracy or difficult regulations for the cosmetics industry.

Well.pl: And at the level of everyday management – ​​what decisions were groundbreaking?

Henryk Orfinger: At the end of the 80s, when we lost control over distribution. Products were sent to wholesalers and... they were lying around there. Nobody cared about their storage conditions, and quality was always a priority for us. We created an independent distribution system then. In 1995, we already had 23 regional distributors. This gave us a huge advantage and allowed us to develop further – in pharmacies with the Pharmaceris brand or on the premium market with the Dr Irena Eris brand.

Henryk Orfinger on succession and family traditions

Well.pl: A few years ago, there was a succession. How did you prepare to hand over the company to your son?

Henryk Orfinger: Without excessive theoretical preparation. Our son had worked in the company for years, he knew it inside out. He had naturally gone through various positions, he knew our approach. It was a calm conversation, without pressure. We gave him space to make decisions. Today he runs the company, and Irena [Irena Eris – editor's note] and I are still active – she is responsible for the product, research, I am on the supervisory board.

Well.pl: And the family foundation?

Henryk Orfinger: I am one of the initiators of this act. I believe that a family foundation is the best way to protect family values ​​and the company. It allows for calm management of succession. The foundation is the owner and the family is its beneficiary. This eliminates conflicts. Thanks to this, children do not have to be managers, but they can still decide about the future of the company if they want.

Well.pl: What qualities should a new generation leader have?

Henryk Orfinger: It must nurture what has been built – relationships, organizational culture – and at the same time have the courage to change, to innovate. Activity and even market aggressiveness are needed. You have to be on the move, constantly developing. You cannot put money first – what counts is the product, quality, people. The money will come if these foundations are strong.

Well.pl: What advice would you give to young entrepreneurs?

Henryk Orfinger: Be yourself. Have an idea, take risks. Without courage, you can't build anything new. Irena and I also started as a startup - although no one called us that at the time. There was no support, grants, funds - we simply had an idea and determination. Not everyone has to be an owner. It's worth knowing your predispositions - not everyone can make difficult decisions.

Well.pl: And privately? What is most important to you?

Henryk Orfinger: Family. It is the overriding value. The company is just an addition. The family foundation has one main goal – peace and family unity. We want our children and grandchildren to live in harmony, to have an easier start and not have to argue about what and how to divide. Peace and relationships are the basis – in life and in business.